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⎪GLACIER TRAVEL AND MULTIDAY EXPEDITIONS

This list describes additional recommended gear for MULTI-DAY expeditions, technical objectives, and tours that include glacial travel. Add these items to DAY TRIP essentials and OVERNIGHT gear for all your ski mountaineering needs. For a list view click here.

Note: Anything you purchase from a link on this website helps finance the continued publication of the Biggest Lines. ALL gear recommendations are based solely on quality and performance, and NOT on any affiliate agreement or vendor obligation. Thank you in advance for your support.

Technical Mountaineering Ice Axe (X2; replaces conventional axe in Daytrip Essentials)

RECOMMENDATIONS: ultra-light alpine ice axe with steel head and hammer (suggested pairing: one with hammer for placing pitons, and the other with a traditional adze for chopping holds and self arrest): Petzl Gully; Black Diamond Venom

Spine Protector (optional but worth the extra weight)

SUGGESTION: POC Spine VPD System Vest 

Micro Traction Pulley (crevasse rescue)*

SUGGESTION: Petzl Micro Traxion 

Crevasse Rescue Pulley (optional)

SUGGESTION: Petzl Partner Pulley

Snow Picket/Deadman (optional)

SUGGESTIONS: SMC I Snow Picket; SMC Snow Anchor; DMM Deadman Snow Anchor
Other options in the case of an emergency: ice axe; backpack; skis; snowboard; ski poles; a VERY SOLID piece of dry wood (use with caution/practice)

Wiregate Nut Tool (optional)

SUGGESTION: Metolius Feather Nut Tool

Ski Binding Leash (optional)

SUGGESTION: Dynafit Guide Leash

Radio

KEY FEATURES: Rechargeable, compact, lightweight, water resistant, belt clips

SUGGESTIONS: Motorola T600 H20 2-Way Radio; Midland TT61VP3 36-Channel GMRS 2-Way Radios with Charger

Satellite Phone (optional)

RECOMMENDATION: Garmin inReach Mini2 (compact, lightweight, Iridium satellite coverage, cell phone compatibility, weather data, built-in GPS, powered by lithium batteries)

 Inclinometer

RECOMMENDATION: Backcountry Access Slope Meter

Camera (optional)

KEY FEATURES: Portable, compact, lightweight, water resistant, high dynamic range, image stabilization, optical zoom

Expedition Pack

KEY FEATURES: (See pack description above) Large enough for all gear to fit inside including shovel, probe, sleeping bag, tent, water bottles, food, sleeping pad (a foam sleeping pad can be fastened on the outside).

SUGGESTIONS: Patagonia Ascensionist 55; Arc’teryx Alpha AR 55; Osprey Mutant 52 Climbing and Mountaineering Backpack

Down Sleeping Bag (with compression sack)

0° to +15° F spring/summer (May-July): Mountain Hardwear Phantom Alpine 15; REI Magma 15

0° F min in winter (Oct-Apr): Mountain Hardwear Phantom 0; Mountain Hardwear Bishop Pass 0;

-20° to -40° F with Gore-Tex type outer fabric for cold Arctic trips/high altitude: Mountain Hardwear Phantom GORE-TEX -40

Sleeping Pads

KEY FEATURES: closed cell foam pad, durable, packable, high R-value (4.0 and above)

SUGGESTIONS: Therm-a-Rest NeoAir Xtherm; Therm-a-Rest Trail Pro

Bowl, Spoon, Mug

Ultralight, non-breakable: Snow Peak Titanium; Snow Peak Titanium Spork; mug is not necessary but nice for hot drinks: Snow Peak Titanium Double Wall 450 Mug; no fork or knife needed.

Backpacking Stove

Ultralight, packable, adjustable valve: Snow Peak LiteMax Stove; MSR PocketRocket Deluxe Stove

Food

Easy to eat, high in fat and calories: nut (cashews are optimal), fruit and chocolate trail mixes, PB & J sandwiches with whole grain bread, nutrition bars, dark chocolate; Shot Bloks or GU gels with caffeine for energy; herbal tea (at night) and caffeinated tea or coffee (mornings). Store in a small stuff sack. Pack enough for all planned days (about 2,000+ calories per day) plus a little extra for emergencies. For healthy, sustainable, responsibly sourced travel food, consider these options from Patagonia Provisions.

Toiletries/Meds

Toilet Paper, Dr. Bronner's Organic Hand Sanitizer, Toothbrush, Dr. Bronner's Travel Toothpaste, Dental Floss, Feminine Products, Dr. Bronner's Organic Liquid Soap, any applicable and appropriate prescription medications (Important: check with your physician for use in the backcountry, and at elevation)

Pee Bottle/Pee Funnel (optional)

Sani-Fem Freshette for women; Nalgene Ultralite Wide-Mouth Water Bottle for men

Zip-Lock Bags

Freezer quality, for toilet paper storage, extra socks, electronics, food, etc.

Mini Lighter + Waterproof Matches

Important Gear Considerations

Weight—Durability—Necessity—Applicability

Match your gear selection to the requirements of your objective. Extra weight can not only hinder the completion of your objective, it can also compromise your safety. Pack smart and pack light. But be conservative.

FOOTNOTES

[1] Know how to use avalanche safety equipment properly BEFORE venturing into the backcountry. For information on avalanche education and training contact the American Institute for Avalanche Research and Education: AIARE

[2] Ski mountaineering doesn’t typically generate the same fall forces that traditional climbing does, so ski mountaineers can get away with carrying a lighter rope. Most ski ropes are 30-60m, 8mm half or twin ropes. However, ropes smaller in diameter than 9.4mm do not have sufficient fall/impact force ratings for leader falls, and are NOT suitable for top rope, crag, sport, or big wall climbing. Also, smaller diameter ropes can be difficult to handle, tangle easily, and tend to be less durable. Choose wisely.

[3] A Munter Hitch is adjustable knot used primarily for belaying a partner when an ATC style belay device is not available. It requires the use of a ‘pear shaped’ HMS locking carabiner for optimal function. 

[4] Dyneema (also known as Spectra or Dynex) is incredibly strong for its weight and is more abrasion and cut-resistant than nylon. Slings made of Dyneema fold up very small so racking is easy, especially 60cm slings racked as extendable quickdraws. Due to their thin diameter, they can be threaded through small gaps where nylon slings are too fat to fit, and are great for tying-off pitons. Dyneema doesn't absorb much water, making them a smarter choice for winter climbing, as nylon slings tend to freeze.

[5] The diameter of your prusik cord should be 60% to 80% of the rope’s diameter, whether you are using the prussik on one rope or two. If you use a cord that is too thin, it will tighten easily around the rope and will be difficult to move freely. If you use a cord that is too thick, it won’t have enough friction to lock on the rope when you need it to.

[6] Taglines (Also called “pull cords” or “rap lines”) are used primarily for doubling with a single rope to make long, full-length rappels when only one conventional mountaineering or climbing rope is available. Note: this is an advanced mountaineering technique; use with caution and proper training/practice.

*basic ski-mountaineering setup in complex and/or glaciated terrain

CAUTION 

THE BIGGEST LINES IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR INJURY OR LOSS OF ANY KIND. ANYONE ATTEMPTING THE ROUTES LISTED HERE OR USING ANY OF THE SUGGESTED OR RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT IS SOLELY RESPONSIBLE FOR THEIR OWN SAFETY.

BE PHYSICALLY AND MENTALLY PREPARED. BE PROPERLY EQUIPPED. SEEK PROFESSIONAL GUIDANCE AND/OR INSTRUCTION ON TECHNIQUE, METHODOLOGY, SAFETY PROTOCOL, AVALANCHE MITIGATION, SELF RESCUE, AND PROPER EQUIPMENT USE.

MONITOR THE WEATHER. TRAVEL WITH A CAPABLE AND TRUSTED PARTNER. USE GOOD JUDGEMENT. BE READY TO TURN BACK IF THE OBJECTIVE BECOMES TOO CHALLENGING, OR IF CONDITIONS BECOME DANGEROUS. LIVE TO SKI ANOTHER DAY.

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